What do kojic acid, lactic acid, l-ascorbic acid, malic acid, and glycolic acid all have in common? Well, aside from the fact that they are all acids, they are all ingredients that are commonly used to help treat hyperpigmentation. All are also naturally derived and relatively gentle on the skin if used properly.
Kojic acid is naturally obtained from mushrooms that are native to Japan. It is a natural skin-lightening agent and also classified as an antioxidant. It works by limiting skin’s production of melanin, what gives our skin it's unique color. Kojic acid works by suppressing an enzyme necessary to produce melanin.
Another natural ingredient used to treat hyperpigmentation is L-absorbic acid. More commonly known as Vitamin C, it is a powerful antioxidant. It can help reverse damage from the sun and stimulates collagen production for tighter skin. It also slows the production of melanin, or hyperpigmentation. One detriment of l-absorbic acid is that it undergoes chemical changes upon exposure to light, heat, or air, becoming inactive. Therefore, the product needs to be used relatively quickly to be beneficial.
Malic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is naturally derived from apples and used to exfoliate dead skin cells, treat melasma, and aid in the treatment of acne. Malic acid also promotes the production of collagen and reduces sun-induced signs of aging after months of daily application. While able to correct photo aging, unfortunately it concurrently makes skin more vulnerable to hyperpigmentation.
Another AHA, lactic acid is naturally derived from milk. It is a skin brightener, that helps to increase cell turnover rates, and improve the texture of the skin. The regular use of lactic acid may also help with product absorption rates as well. Commonly used in chemical peels, lactic acid is relatively mild and requires little to no downtime. It is suitable for both dry and oily skin types, and does not have a photosensitizing effect.
Glycolic acid is also an AHA, and naturally derived from sugar. It has the smallest molecular structure of all the AHA's making it most effective for treating fine lines, acne, blackheads, dullness, oiliness, and of course - hyperpigmentation. Like lactic acid, it is also commonly used in a series of chemical peels. It is a transparent, colorless, water-like liquid. It is considered a mild to moderate peel, and strengths come in varying percentages, that usually range from 30% to 75% concentration. It is said that glycolic acid is slightly more aggressive than lactic acid.
All of the ingredients listed above need to be used in conjunction with sunscreen to prevent further hyperpigmentation and sun damage and to maintain desired results.
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