An Introduction to Chemcial Exfoliation

A chemical exfoliation, also commonly referred to as a chemical peel, is when a chemical solution is professionally applied to the skin in an effort to remove the outer layers of the skin and address different types of skin conditions.

Popular ingredient choices for chemical exfoliations are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA's) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA's). AHA's and BHA's dissolve dead skin bonds, stimulate cell renewal, fight hyperpigmentation, liquify excess oil in pores, and clear up acne. They also help to minimize fine lines and refine pore size. These acids allow your skin to better receive the benefits from your home skin care regimen. Although these acids are all similar, different acids help target certain skin conditions more specifically.

Prepping your skin is crucial to the success of your chemical exfoliation. Two week prior to receiving your exfoliation you should begin using a glycolic based cleanser to prepare your skin for an professional grade exfoliation. You should also discontinue use of products like Retin-A and hydroquinone two weeks prior to your service. Properly prepping your face will produce a more uniformed penetration, and contribute to faster cell turnover. It also decreases your risk of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

There are many different types of chemical exfoliation, varying in strength of active ingredients. They have key differences such as pH level, how much skin is removed, and how deep the chemicals penetrate.  When considering a chemical exfoliation it is important to consider two main factors: the pH level of the product and the percentage of the product. The pH level indicates how deep the product will penetrate. For example, the lower the pH, the greater concentration of acid. The percentage of the peel determines how effective the product will be at breaking up the intercellular glue.

There are four different depths of chemical peels: very superficial, superficial, medium, and deep.

Very superficial peels exfoliate the stratum corneum (top layer of the skin) and include manual scrubs, gommage, enzymes, microdermabrasion, and very low percentage AHA's and BHA's.

Superficial peels are usually made up of: AHA and BHA peels (which include glycolic, lactic, tartaric, malic, mandelic, and salicylic acids), Jessner's Solution Peels, and low percentage trichloroacetic acid peels (TCA).

Medium depth peels penetrate deeper into the skin to and typically take longer for redness and peeling to subside. They include:  70% glycolic acid peels, 35-40% TCA peels, and the Obagi Blue Peel.

Deep peels are usually derived from Phenols, C02 lasers, Levulan, and dermabrasion. Results are nothing short of incredible; drastically reducing hyperpigmentation, scarring, and deep lines. This type of peel can look and feel very painful; swelling, scabbing, and peeling are typical. These procedures are done in a doctors office under general anesthesia or twilight sedation. They require a significant amount of down time as well.

It is normal to have some redness, followed by dryness and itching. Peeling may also occur before your healing process is over. After your peel you should avoid touching your face until the following morning. You should wash your face with a gentle cleanser for sensitive skin. Avoid using washcloths or anything abrasive on your skin for 5-7 days after your treatment.  Strenous exercise should be avoided for 24-48 hours. It is also recommended to avoid wearing makeup until peeling subsides, or using a mineral based makeup if necessary. Sunblock, like always, is an absolute must! Results and post care do vary depending on the type of treatment, so it is important to follow the advice of your esthetician or doctor.

What Ingredients Are Best For Me?
Glycolic Acid - Targets thicker, oiler, congested, pigmented, fine lines, anti-aging

Lactic Acid - Targets pigmented, dry, dehydrated, fine lines, anti-aging

Malic Acid - Targets mature skin; anti-aging, firming, toning

Tartaric Acid - Targets mature skin; strengthens collagen and elastin, firming and toning

Mandelic Acid - Targets sensitive, acne-prone, pigmented skin

Citric Acid - Targets pigmented and uneven skin tone

Salicylic - Targets acne, uneven skin tone, oily, fine lines, texture

Jessner - Targets fine lines, wrinkles, photo damage, firming, toning, texture, dehydration

TCA - Targets mature skin; strengthens collagen and elastin, maintains 3-dimensional alignment of dermis (deeper layer of skin), scars, folds, wrinkles, texture, and tone.